Excess
Excess
Continuing in the series of dinners we are holding this year, "Excess" was celebrated on 10 & 11 July at Claude's.
The term could suggest an antiquated concept that references the tacky extravagance of the 80's or earlier in history. Or otherwise particularly negative connotations of joyless and even deviant indulgence which brings punishment in
counterbalance. It became the challenge to present the concept in a positive light.
The menu presented is as follows:
Canapés: Bisteeya and Devils on Horseback
The saffron spiced pigeon making up the bisteeya filling was encased in leaves of pastry. The Devils on Horseback was a reinterpretation of the cocktail classic with glazed oyster
and chicken liver providing the filling for prunes which were then braised in citrus juice, five spice and brandy. Excess here was symbolised by the use of spices, which were considered extravagant ingredients during the times of the
spice trade.
Counterpoint for Comparison: Five Tastes of Marron
Guests were invited to add seasoning in whatever proportions they felt fit when presented with a sauté of marron, Jerusalem artichoke, green asparagus and slippery jack
mushroom to wrap with green leaves. They played with combinations of hot (green peppercorn & chilli relish with oil), sour (lemon juice & zest in powder form), salty (deep-fried squid plus salty fish), bitter (bitter melon
juice) and sweet (red marron roe ground with sugar). In giving guests the power to control the tension of seasoning and taste, it's then possible to identify when some taste is excessive.
Gross Extremity: Blood Sausage
Pigs' blood sausage was glazed with beetroot juice and service with a pale mustard cream sauce and crisped potato. There was no sense of balance here with an excess of fat and protein. The
sense of balance was later redressed with a refreshing salad and also baked beetroot and wilted cavolo nero.
Opulence: Four-Treasure Duck
The sense of opulence was evident in the name given to the duck. The treasures in the duck were salsify, shiitake mushroom, chestnut and salted pork. The boned out duck was dried and glazed
and roasted to render it of fat and a generous quarter of a duck was served to each guest.
Decadence: Truffled Desserts
In celebration of the Australian black truffle season three desserts were presented with the intention of highlighting the different nuances of the black truffle. Truffles have a fruity and
floral aspect. To highlight this, strawberries macerated in sherry syrup were served with violet flower granita and truffles were then shaved over.
The yeastiness of the truffle was played upon in the truffled champagne & stout bombe. A stout and wort filling oozed out of the centre of a cylinder of champagne and truffle ice cream.
The last dessert emphasised the nutty and chocolaty nature of the truffle. Truffle and quince were sandwiched between 2 layers of whisky drenched chocolate sponge which was then encased in caramel chocolate ganache.
Hopefully, the guests left feeling satisfied in all positive senses of the word.
